I have been home for a few days now and it feels like the old routines have begun. There is a part of me that wants the old routines to resume unchanged and welcome, but I also have a nagging in the back of my brain. I am haunted by the words of young Dominic, “Please remember Uganda.” In a way I don’t want to remember. I know I will not be able to reconcile the poverty and life circumstance of Africa. People ask me what it was like and I don’t know how to explain it, I cannot do it justice. I cannot bring justice to the African people. Their lives are beautiful, the way all life is beautiful, but they have to work so much harder at it than I do. They have to struggle and struggle and struggle. Why am I so lucky? I won’t forget Uganda. It has humbled me, made me more grateful, made me live vulnerably. While I think my work had an impact, I don’t think I touched them with the same force. They will think more about employment law, I will think about how to move through the world differently. It seems that I am the more blessed recipient once again….
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Jeff and I attended Sunday mass at a little church about three blocks from the hotel. The presence of the African congregation, the singing and knowing that mass was being said exactly the same way all over the world was comforting, but also moved me to tears. The choir was accompanied only by drums and the voices were exquisite. Oh, they really know how to have a celebration. Even though their official language is English, Lugandan is still widely spoken in Kampala. Each area has its own dialect that is popular in that region. I think it will take several generations before English is fluently spoken. All of this to relay that the mass was in Lugandan. They did, however, print the readings and gospel in English, so I at least knew what they were. They also had about six baptisms. As always, everyone was dressed in a colorful array of clothing, but impeccably ironed, decorated and adorned.
The walk to mass took us by the US Embassy and through a Catholic school campus where students reside in dorms and are away from their families for the school year. This is a very common practice in Uganda. Most students, if their families can afford tuition, are sent for education in the cities, since the country schools are considered not as effective. Lining the dormitory walkways were huge trees that had signs posted saying things like, “Obey your parents.” “Listen to your teachers.” “Wash your hands.” “Do not drink water unless it is boiled.” It made me smile. For dinner, Jeff and I hired a driver to take us to a Middle Eastern restaurant in a more affluent part of Kampala. I only mention that because it meant that we could eat raw vegetables if they were served. Their clientele is mainly from the surrounding embassies and they must have safe food to stay in business. (I really miss raw vegetables!) It was such a treat and amazing food! I knew we would have authentic food because there is a large Muslim population here. We hear the call to prayer several times a day. I enjoy the sound of that music and the meditative prayers being said. It is lovely. Out-processing was fast and furious. Details of the process and action plan were reported to Catholic Relief Services and also US Aid. They both sponsor the Farmer to Farmer program. It was a bit hectic because the meeting started so late and Jeff had to get to his plane. It is a strange thing saying good-bye to someone that you have only known for ten days, but have bonded with so deeply. I am guessing that Africa has this effect on people…..the shared experience is so extraordinary. I picked out a few souvenirs from a vendor at the hotel before I left. One was a rather large wooden carved lizard, very simplistic, but quite unique. I fell in love with it as soon as I saw it. I was not sure whether to purchase this, as I don’t need anything. And of course, that has never been brought home more to me than now. But, Jeff convinced me to support the local economy and take something for myself to remember my journey. The lizard seemed to fit the bill. I asked the vendor to box it up for the flight. When I came back to retrieve the lizard from him, I found it wrapped all in paper and then completely covered it in yellow tape. Instead of boxing it, he had just wrapped the form. It looked like I had embalmed a pet and put a handle on it for transfer. To say it was humorous is an understatement. Everywhere I carried my lizard, people burst out laughing. The hotel staff, the taxi driver, my taxi companion and one extremely impressed airport security guard all broke into fits of laughter and the jokes broke down all language barriers. I am going to name him the laughing lizard. What a pleasant goodbye from Africa. One point I need to make before beginning…. This blog looks like it is posted daily. In reality, each entry encompasses two or three days.
Today Jeff and I finished our last teaching day. Yes, it is early, but due to safety concerns, we are heading back home. But first we have some days to debrief and complete paperwork needed for the Cooperative as well as CRS. I am very grateful that in spite of the safety concerns, we made the decision to go back for the last day. It would have felt so unfinished if we had not been able to wrap up our work and say our goodbyes. I have to admit, packing Human Resource policy training into five days, is a pretty hefty feat. When you add on the language barrier, it is next to impossible. But, we did complete training for the information they requested and I feel pretty good about the outcome. The tools are now available to them. I am heartened that the Nankoma SACCO had the foresight to request employment training and displayed the willingness to learn about Ugandan employment law. I expect they will become a resource for the other businesses around them. Most importantly, if they implement these policies, they protect themselves from fines and penalties. The community will also gain respect for this employer that treats employees with dignity and respect while providing them a voice. I had to laugh when we were covering paternity leave…..yes, paternity leave. They have the right to four days. At the mention of this idea, snickers and chatter filled the room. This, apparently, is not culturally acceptable yet. But to their credit, they give women ample paid maternity leave. Laughter comes easily to Ugandans. They are hospitable, gracious and joyful. Almost every member of the group expressed their deepest regret for our safety issues and the most heart-felt gratitude for our coming and teaching them. Saying goodbye to Agnes was the most difficult. This woman is a force. She is the glue of the SACCO Board, an extraordinary mind and a gifted teacher. Both Jeff and I agree…our missions would have failed without her. On the way back to our hotel, we met our driver’s brother. He spoke excellent English and I was able to ask him many questions and converse without the obstacle of language. He reminded me of my own boys, joking and making funny references to girls, school and work opportunities. As he left, he turned to me with tears in his eyes and said, “Carmae, it was a pleasure meeting you. But, please don’t forget Uganda.” It brought me to tears. I can feel the immense pride and resilience of the Ugandan people. They want so much to save their way of life, their communities, and country. But they simply do not have the resources to do it. I don’t know how to reconcile this. I simply don’t know…. Yesterday was an experience that I will not soon forget. We had a break-in in Jeff’s room and had to switch hotels rather quickly. CRS was quite amazing in their response. They immediately sent a representative from Kampala while we waited at the police station. There is no question that the majority of the people here are good and would never do us any harm. But there are militias and factions that exist as well. However, there has been no identification threat by CRS or the US Embassy and this is considered to be a very safe area.
We moved to a hotel an additional 36 Kilometers away, so the drive in the morning was an hour longer. Again, I am reminded of the overall safety that we take for granted in the United States. Living vulnerably is not a choice here. It is a rough reality. Leaving our little hotel was a great sadness for us. Liz, the caretaker, is a young woman of 28 who took extraordinary care of us. She was simply a joy in every way and cried as we left. I cannot believe that I haven’t brought up the food here. If you know me, you know how much I love food from all different cultures and learning about them is one of my favorite things. Each morning, we start with a cheese omelet and toast. It took our hotel a while to get this right, and without egg shells included, but they were so dear in trying to please us. On the third day I requested hot sauce and they have a brand called “Top Up.” Then Jeff asked for some jam and honey. This has made us both very happy. Most people here eat plantains and a sort of fried bread called mandashi to start their day. We also have papaya juice and coffee that is made in boiled hot milk. Ironically, in the land of coffee, we have only had instant coffee added to milk. For lunch, I usually just eat a granola bar since it is normally during my teaching hours. They eat lunch here beginning at 1:00 pm and dinner does not start before 7:00 p.m. Dinner has consisted of rice and beans or rice and greens for me. These are both delicious, especially with the addition of hot sauce. The first few days, I tried some of the local chicken stew, but feel better with the beans and greens. Most meat and fish is stewed or cooked among rice. I was surprised to learn the fish served is mainly tilapia and from the Nile. They also have a local flat bread that looks much like a tortilla called chapat. My favorite food is the greens. It is much like kale, but slices so thinly that the crunch is lovely and not near as difficult to eat as kale we serve. I will be excited to try this method when I cook kale next. Many foods are served with sliced fresh tomatoes, onions and green chiles. I want to eat this so badly, but we have been warned to eat only cooked vegetables and fruit with the skin/peel still in tact. I have had watermelon, paw paw (papaya) and finger bananas that are all quite tasty. I also had my first diet coke the other evening and a local beer called Tusker. I cannot express how good it was to have a beer. The little things really do make a difference. J Jeff and I spend our evenings preparing for classes the following day and playing a marathon of cribbage games. So far, I am ahead, but he is making a serious come back. I will keep you posted…… This morning I went teaching with Jeff Knowles, my fellow volunteer for the Farmer to Farmer program that we both support through CRS. He is teaching the farmers about soil conservation and best practices. He is retired from the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service and volunteers his time all over the world. Jeff’s mission is to change the release of carbon dioxide from the earth due to what Ugandan’s call “clean farming,” meaning the land has no organic matter remaining from past crops. This robs the nutrients from the soil and is destroying the farmland all over the world. Keeping decaying organic matter or growing other plants like grass with the crops helps soil maintain nutrients and prevents washouts. In addition, he is teaching the concepts of slope contour farming and about the nutrient load healthy soil receives from insects. Essentially, keep your weed roots (just chop off the heads), unless invasive species, till minimally and welcome the insects. Honestly, I was fascinated. I have been working too hard in my garden apparently!
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